Italy is a place I love to return to – and continue to explore new places. Each region is distinct like it’s own country. This summer, I indulged in spending two weeks throughout Puglia.

Itinerary

Day 1- Arrival in Bari airport, train to Monopoli- Explore Monopoli in the evening

Day 2- Monopoli- Beach day

Day 3- Monopoli- Full Day Tour to Matera & Alberobello

Day 4- Monopoli- Beach day

Days 5-7 Lecce- City explorations, shopping, simple cuisine

Days 8-10- Gallipoli- Beach days

Days 11-14- Martina Franca- Winery visit, city explorations

Notes & Plans

You’re probably wondering why Bari isn’t on this itinerary. I did stop there on my way in Monopoli and walk around for a bit. I know it’s a prime Puglia destination. Perhaps I’ll check it out next time.

It was so hard to choose where to stay throughout beautiful Puglia. I mulled over it quite a bit. But ultimately, I think you’ll automatically nail it if you choose Monopoli. This coastal beauty had a maze-like city center, walkable beaches, and really great wine bars & food. I dedicated two days as beach days. The public beaches fill up early, so I went to the nearby beach club where I could rent a chair and umbrella. During my other full day in Monopoli, I left on a full day tour to visit Matera and Alberobello. I enjoyed seeing those places, though it’s also hard to say I’d want to dock a day in Monopoli over it…

After four nights in Monopoli, I hopped on the train to Lecce, under an hour and a half. I checked into my lovely Airbnb just on the outskirts of the center and began exploring this beautiful, old, haunted looking place. I have to admit I mostly just wandered around the city- took pictures of things on the street, window shopped, stepped into the old churches, and dined on their simplest cuisine. The one museum I visited in Lecce was quite unique- Faggiano Museum- it told the story of a family intending to open a Trattoria, when a simple plumbing job led to uncovering a treasure trove of historical artifacts, even dating back to connections with the Knights Templar. You can walk around the house/structure and view art and artifacts within the space along with a translated guide which explains the background.

After three days in Lecce, I hopped on the slow train to Gallipoli (I hear the bus might be better, but who knows!) I stayed at a beautiful boutique hotel called the Palazzo Presta, next to the Spiaggia Purita, a perfect free public beach. I went in the morning and it was not very crowded. I spent two days laying out on the sand reading my book, then swimming in the gentle waves. Gallipoli certainly has an amazing beach, and it’s very much a beach town. The restaurants are pretty good (some were great), but it was all pricier than it’s previous Puglia neighbors. Still not terrible, but worth noting.

After three nights in Gallipoli, I moved on to my last stop, Martina Franca. Recommended by my parents, I came here in hopes for a relaxing and beautiful stop in Puglia. It was lovely and a place where I could enjoy the simple things. I loved wandering the maze-like streets of white buildings, churches, and hanging art. On my second day, I took the bus to Locorotondo (15 minutes) and went to a wine tasting.

In most of these locations, it got extremely hot during the afternoon and the cities completely cleared out. I ended up taking on this siesta schedule and loving it. It works well to walk around and do your sightseeing before the sun gets too strong. After lunch, hunker inside and relax or nap, then get ready to hit the streets again when the sun goes down. It was amazing to see streets in places like Lecce and Martina Franca completely empty at 3pm, but bustling full of tourists of all ages at midnight!

Foods & Drinks

-Monopoli- Radimare– This fine dining spot was truly incredible. I’m still thinking about the green sauce from the fish tartare.

-Monopoli- Al Vicoletto– Another totally standout restaurant. I only regret that I didn’t get to come back here more than once. It gets busy, but it doesn’t close during the afternoon, so I was able to nab a table in the later afternoon, after having a beach day. I loved the fresh octopus salad and the perfect, crispy spaghetti cooked in its own sauce!

-Lecce- I was lucky to grab a spot at the communal table here. I went for the pasta with eggplant, tomato, and cheese. The other dishes looked great, too.

-Lecce- Keeping with my trend of simplicity, I enjoyed a primi of the local homemade pasta with tomato sauce, followed by sauteed cuttlefish. This place was just outside the city walls and no frills, but I loved eating my main meal here.

-Gallipoli- An amazing place to try the local purple shrimp pasta. One of my favorites in Puglia. (I tried to walk in when they first opened for dinner, but they could not accommodate me without a recommendation, so luckily I was able to book and return for the next night!)

-Martina Franca- Braceria del Ponte– I tried a few different kinds of bombette here. All were awesome, but my favorite was the spicy ones. I highly recommend checking out a braceria for meats in Puglia!

-Martina Franca- This was an amazing sandwich spot in the main square.

-Martina Franca- Origini– I loved my orrechiette pomodoro here, as well as the beef tartare. Just a great example of classic dishes done perfectly with the freshest of ingredients.

-Martina Franca- Luba Bistrot– I came here for lunch- it was a little bit of a walk, but I was surprised to find it empty when I first arrived. (A couple more people came, but still.) I was even more surprised when my food arrived and it was totally incredible. Everyone in town was missing out. Go to this amazing restaurant!

Next time?

I’d definitely return to Puglia! It was beautiful and peaceful. As much as I loved all my locations on this trip, I’d specifically return to Monopoli and Lecce- I loved them both and they had easier train access.